115 R.C.A.F. Road, St. John's, NL

More than 45 million or 35 % of households in the United States own at least one cat(1)

Cats are unique creatures. 

Like most people, you may also have observed that cats can manifest both aloofness and affection. Understanding cats may sometimes prove to be quite a challenging task.

Cats are typically easy to please. On the other hand, cats can also get picky.

More often than not, cats are a mystery. It is up to pet owners to read the cats’ behavior as their caregivers. 

Even though cats appear to be able to read humans’ minds, it is challenging to read theirs. Lack of understanding could pose a problem to cat owners when their pet exhibits symptoms of bad health that are typically unknown to the public.

Advancement in veterinary medicine has enabled animal doctors to provide better treatment for various cat conditions. 

Some professionals may even recommend using alternative remedies such as essential oils and cannabidiol oil (CBD oil) for cats. Click here for more information.  However, knowing the signs of good health in cats to prevent possible health problems is a more responsible approach to cat ownership.


Characteristics of a Healthy Cat

It is vital to learn your cat’s normal physical condition and behavior from the beginning to recognize excellent health and promptly notice any signs of disease.

Typically, a healthy cat has bright eyes, a sleek coat, and an alert demeanor. Healthy cats also eat eagerly, groom themselves properly, and socialize with their owners(2).

One of the most crucial factors in selecting a healthy cat is the cat’s personality. You can tell a lot about character, even in kittens(3).

Below are some critical pointers you can consider in determining whether your cat is in good health.

Behavior

It is natural for a cat to be timid at first. However, as the cat grows on you, its personality will develop. 

Generally speaking, whether your cat is naturally outgoing or more reserved, it should appear active and cheerful(4).

You can take note of the cat’s movements (swift or relaxed) and sounds (meowing, chirruping). Also, observe how the cat interacts with you and your family. 

The cat should grow to trust you and be pleased to see you, especially once he realizes that you are the one who provides the food.

In addition to the suggestions above, consider how your cat eats and drinks. It should have a strong appetite and be able to eat without difficulty. 

Cats prefer to eat frequently and in small amounts. 

Cats will drink a lot of water because they obtain most of their moisture from food. It may not drink as much as they consume, but it may drink more if fed only dry food.

Clean your cat’s litter tray many times a day if it uses one. You can learn how frequently your cat regularly defecates and urinates.

Keep an eye out for strange behaviors such as licking a specific body region excessively, pawing the face, or shaking the head. 

These behaviors could indicate a wound, parasite infection, or anything lodged in the skin or coat.

Appearance

Aside from the cat’s behavior, you can also check its appearance to know more about its health.

Some physical signs that may indicate a cat is in good health include:

  • Excess tears, mucus, or crusting are not present in the eyes.
  • A clean mouth, teeth are in good shape, and gums are healthy.
  • There is no discomfort or discharge in the area under the tail.
  • Ears should be clean and wax-free.
  • Body shape is typical for the breed.
    The cat should be well-covered. However, it should not have a fat appearance.
  • Nose cool and damp, with no mucus

 

Final Notes on Cat Wellness

Even in old age, healthy cats are often playful. They also maintain a beautiful silky coat. 

Healthy cats’ eyes are bright and open wide with no discharge. 

Cats should use the litter box properly, have a firm stool, and urinate frequently. They should drink plenty of water and eat their food with gusto. 

Cats’ body temperatures should be approximately 101 degrees Fahrenheit. Their gums should be pink, and they should have no tartar on their teeth.

Cats also require more routine health care. Healthcare routine may include vaccines, viral and fecal testing, and spaying or neutering.

Raise any questions about your cat’s health when you see your veterinarian. Keep in mind the pointers above to help you choose which irregularities you should discuss with your veterinarian.

You can grow a healthy cat and live in harmony with them if you understand their basic needs.

 

References

  1. Pets by the numbers: https://humanepro.org/page/pets-by-the-numbers
  2. Wexler-Mitchell, E. Guide to a Healthy Cat. Howell Book House. 2003
  3. Ibid.
  4. Dorling Kindersley. (2014). Complete Cat Care.

 

Scent swapping

Cats communicate with each other by scent. To introduce two cats, start by “swapping” scents. Be patient, and give this process a few days!

  • On the first day, place your new cat’s towel on or near your resident cat’s favourite place or food bowl. Encourage him/her to approach. If your cat starts to hiss, spit or avoid the towel, place it on the floor away from his bed or food bowl. Each day, move the towel closer to kitty’s’ food bowl.
    • Do the same thing with your resident cat’s bedding, giving it to the new kitty to smell.
  • Next, swap food bowls between the cats. They will start to associate the positive act of eating with the scent of the other cat.
  • Swap direct scent between cats by petting one cat with a cloth around the cheeks. Then, pet the other cat with it in the same way. The cheeks are where cats have glands that secrete a “friendly” hormone.

The time it takes to accept each other’s scent varies. With social cats or kittens, it can take a few hours. With less social cats, it can take a few weeks. Patience is key!

Once they are completely tolerant of each other’s scent, it’s time to move to visual contact.

Visual contact

Let your cats see each other, but keep them separate. Ideally, use a glass door, a screen door,
or a baby gate (with the access above the gate blocked).

If none of these are available, open the door of your new cat’s room just enough so the cats are able to see each other, sniff each other and touch noses but not go through. Secure it with a hook or a small nail and a rope.

  • Encourage the cats to spend time close to each other on either side of the door or by playing with a feather wand (thus avoiding putting your hand between the cats). Don’t use catnip it can make some cats aggressive or overly excited. However, be sure to have treats handy so the cats will build positive associations with each other.
  • Hissing and quick swats are normal at first. However, if the cats are showing more aggression than this, make the opening smaller. Over the next few days, feed the cats closer and closer to the door.
  • Only once the cats are comfortable with each other is it time for a proper introduction. You’ll know they’re comfortable when they sniff noses, play through the door or rub against the door. There should be no growling, spitting or hissing.

The territory swap

It’s time to open the door and let the cats explore each other’s territory. Just for safety, keep a jingly item (such as a set of keys) that you can throw on the floor to distract them should they get into a little spat. If you’ve followed the steps so far, your cats will probably be fine.

Don’t worry if the cats ignore each other. Don’t pick them up and force them to interact. Remember, cats resolve personality conflicts by increasing space between each other. Give them the freedom to do this.

So that both cats feel comfortable, make sure there are at least two options for escaping contact with the other cat such as somewhere to jump to, or a doorway to exit through.

Let your cats do their thing

Some cats are friends, playing together or grooming each other. Others ignore each other. Whatever works for your cats is fine. Cats actually enjoy watching other cats. Even if they don’t seem to interact, they are making each other’s life more interesting simply by being around.

Unless your cats freely choose to use the same litter box and eat out of the same bowl, be sure to provide each cat with a litter box, separate beds, hiding and perching areas and food and water bowls.

Dealing with cat bullying

Bullying between cats can sometimes be very subtle. A cat may bully another by denying them access to resources. For example, one cat may sit near the food bowl and hiss or swat at the other cat when they approach. Or one cat may simply stare at the other.

If one cat feels intimidated, they will avoid areas protected by the other. They will also flatten their body and move slowly from place to place to avoid arousing the bully cat.

Be sure the bullied cat has their own space where they access a litter box, food, water and bedding without being bullied. Consider arranging furniture so that the bullied cat has multiple escape routes and hiding areas to avoid contact with the bully.

Let the cats develop their own patterns to avoid contact. Many cats live fine together even if they’re not the best of friends. However, if you do see signs of bullying, observe the bullied cat for signs of stress-related illness or behaviour problems (such as peeing/pooping outside the litter box).

Don’t punish the bully, though! If you see signs of bullying, go back a few steps to scent-swapping, and try again.

Purchasing Feliway, a cat appeasing pheromone sold as both a plugin diffuser and as a spray, can help. The spray can be applied to cat beds, perching areas and furniture.

The good news is that just like you and me, when a cat has a respiratory infection, they will usually get over it in a few days with no treatment. Some cats sneeze a little, while others develop more severe symptoms and become depressed, run a fever and even stop eating before they get well. Occasionally, cats develop bacterial infections (green or yellow discharge from the eyes or nose), which can be a little gross, but can usually be taken care of with antibiotics.

We make every effort to keep our cats healthy and free from disease, but we do currently have a high incident rate. We test all cats for feline leukemia and deworm and vaccinate them. We keep their environment as clean and stress-free as possible. Despite our best efforts, however, most cats develop colds in the shelter. This problem in not unique to our shelter; in fact, colds (also known as “kitty cold”/ UR I/upper respiratory infections) represent the single largest infectious disease in shelters nationwide.

We do not believe a cat should be euthanized just because of this. Instead, we try to nurse the cats through their sickness. We hope that you understand and will help us care for these cats and kittens. It would be a shame not to offer them up for adoption simply because they are ill. Just as in people, respiratory illnesses are not usually life-threatening.

For kitties with respiratory illnesses, the best medicine is rest, TLC and time. Never give a cat Tylenol or other “people medications” – they are toxic to cats. Keep runny noses and eyes clean from discharge by wiping with a clean warm wet cloth. Feed your cat smelly, moist cat food; cats with a stuffy nose may not eat because they cannot smell. A moist food with a strong fishy smell often stimulates the appetite and is easy on sore throats. Most importantly, follow the advice of your veterinarian.

What is URI (Upper Respiratory Infection)?

Feline upper respiratory disease is an umbrella term for any number of viral and bacterial infections that cause sneezing, nasal discharge, runny/swollen eyes, couch, oral or nasal ulcers, chronic gingivitis, sniffles and fever, or any combination of these symptoms.

How does infection occur?

All of the possible agents that cause upper respiratory infection are highly contagious, meaning they are spread easily from cat to cat. The disease spreads similar to the common cold in the human world. It can be caught through direct or indirect contact. The viruses can live on things such as food bowls, bedding, and toys for weeks, making it very easy to spread from sick to healthy cats. People who come into contact with sick cats (i.e., veterinary professionals, shelter staff or animal control officers) can also easily spread the disease on to their own cats through contact with their clothing, shoes and hands.

A high percentage of cats are exposed at a young age (as kittens) and may harbour these infections for life, but never show symptoms. It is also important to note that cats can be contagious, even if they are not showing symptoms. Cats that are at higher risk for infection are those that come into contact with many other cats in a shelter, boarding facility or pet store, those that go outside, or cats whose vaccinations are not up to date.

How do I prevent the disease?

Vaccination

Your new cat will have had at least one vaccine given by shelter staff called FVRCP which will vaccinate him/her against feline viral rhinotracheitis (aka herpes virus) and calicivirus, the two most common causes of feline upper respiratory infections. The vaccine also provides protection from Panleukopenia, commonly called feline distemper. This vaccine should be given twice to adult cats and three times to kittens, each vaccine is given 3-4 weeks apart, and then every 1-3years afterwards (depending on what brand of vaccine is used).

The vaccine will help your cat’s immune system fight off infection with the two most common causes of URI. However, it cannot be guaranteed that he/she did not have a URI prior to arriving at the shelter that may flair up later in life. Also, there are many other agents that can cause infection that your cat can still be vulnerable to.

Your veterinarian will tell you when this vaccine needs to be repeated with a booster shot, as well as when other vaccines (rabies virus and feline leukemia) are due. All cats should be kept current with their vaccines.

Supportive Care

Just as important as vaccination is helping support your cat’s immune system. If your cat has a healthy, strong immune system he/she will be better equipped to fight off any infections – new or old. During your first vet visit with your new cat, you should discuss a supplement called L-lysine. L-lysine has been proven to reduce the severity of URI and prevent future flair ups, especially when caused by the herpes virus. It is good to provide this supplement for the first month-6 weeks as the move to a new home can be quite stressful and cause reoccurrence. Lastly, ensuring your cat eats a high-quality diet will help keep their immune system working well.

My new cat is showing signs. When should I be concerned?

Most URI will clear on their own, but sometimes it can be serious. You should consult your veterinarian immediately if your cat shows any URI signs and one or more of the following indicators:

  • Stops eating/drinking
  • Has painful sores around mouth, eyes, or nose
  • Is known to have a lowered immune system due to age, pregnancy, immunosuppressive medication or is suffering from another illness at the same time
  • Feels hot to touch (may be fever)
  • Has unexplained lameness or swelling in the limbs
  • Within 14 days of adoption, if your new cat(s) are showing signs of Upper Respiratory Infection, then you may contact the shelter at 726-0301 and book an appointment to bring your cat in for an examination with one of our Animal Care Attendants. We will contact our veterinarian and may then choose to treat with antibiotics and/or eye drops depending on the severity of symptoms showing.
  • After 14 days following the adoption it will be your responsibility to set up an appointment with your own veterinarian and we will be responsible for any fees associated with this.
    Signs of Upper Respiratory Infection include:

    • Green/yellow discharge from eyes or nose
    • Excessive sneezing
    • Lethargy
    • No interest in eating or drinking
    • Dehydration
  • We recommend purchasing lysine for your new cat as this can help boost their immune system and aid in the progression of Upper Respiratory Infection symptoms. This comes in a powder, paste and treat form and can be purchased over the counter at your local veterinarian. We give this to each cat in the shelter daily.
  • When you are transitioning your new cat to a new diet (of your choice) please make sure to do this process over a period of 5-7 days to make it as easy as possible on your cat’s belly. Sometimes, if cats are switching diets too quickly, they will get diarrhea which can persist for more than a few days. We recommend the following transition scheme:
    • Day 1: Full amount of food currently being fed at the shelter
    • Day 2-3: ¾ amount of shelter food, ¼ amount of new diet
    • Day 4-5: ½ amount of shelter food, ½ amount of new diet
    • Day 6-7: ¼ amount of shelter food, ¾ amount of new diet
    • Day 8 +: Full amount of new diet
  • If you have signed up for the free trial of insurance, make sure to check your email within 24 hours (including your junk mail folder) and call the toll-free number (1-877-291-1524) to activate your trial. There is a waiting period of 24 hours for accident coverage and 72 hours for illness coverage, so you should register as soon as possible. You have 7 days to activate this free trial, after 7 days it is no longer valid
  • If you have any other questions regarding your adoption, please contact our animal care staff at (709) 726-0301 extension 101.
  • Appetite loss. If your cat won’t eat for more than two days, that’s a concern. Appetite is a general indicator of health problems. This is especially serious if it lasts more than four to five days.
  • Dragging hind quarters on floor. This can indicate an impacted anal gland or problems such as kidney disease, diabetes, or pelvic injury.
  • Severe constipation/diarrhea or dehydration, blood in the urine or feces. These conditions all require examination. Seek medical attention.
  • Straining to urinate. This can indicate cystitis, bladder infection or, especially in male cats, urinary obstruction. If left untreated, a urinary obstruction can cause death within twenty-four hours.
  • Drinking increase. This can indicate conditions such as diabetes, kidney disease, and uterine infection.
  • Excessive salivation can be a sign of such problems as gingivitis, a viral infection, or poisoning.
  • Enlarged abdomen. If your cat is not large to begin with, this can indicate serious problems such as tumors, heart or liver disease. In kittens, a rapidly enlarging belly may mean intestinal parasites or feline infectious peritonitis.
  • Gasping or shortness of breath. This can be a sign of obstruction, heart or respiratory problems.
  • Lethargy, hiding, or low energy. Cats who aren’t acting like themselves may be signaling that they have health problems. Seek medical attention if your cat’s personality drastically changes.
  • Among other things, lumps can be tumors, cysts, or fatty deposits. They should always be examined by a vet, especially if they increase rapidly in size.
  • Red or swollen gums. This indicates gingivitis and dental disease. It can also indicate kidney or liver problems, feline leukemia virus, or diabetes.
  • Weight loss despite good appetite. This can indicate conditions such as diabetes, hyperthyroidism, and pancreatic problems.
  • Upper respiratory infection (URI). This is like a human cold. A cat with URI will have some or all of the following symptoms: sneezing, congestion, appetite loss, fever, runny eyes/nose, drooling, and lethargy. Although URI is highly contagious amongst cats, people and dogs are not at risk. A cat with URI requires veterinary care and prescription antibiotics. Most cats fully recover from this type of infection within one to three weeks.
  • Repeatedly licking the floor or wall. This can indicate an underlying health issue.

Your kitten’s first year is their most important one! Your new little bundle of joy is learning everything about the world and finding their place in it right now, as well as going through a lot of physical changes as they grow big and strong. During your first few weeks together, you and your kitten will form a bond that will set the pace for all future interactions. We want to have the best relationship possible with our cats, but if you’ve chosen a kitten, you must be the one to help kitten lay the bricks when building their personality. A keen understanding of why kittens do certain things will help you keep your kitten on the right track to be a confident, well-adjusted cat, so let’s read on!

7-12 Weeks of Age

This is the time when your kitten is developing their social skills. Kittens figure out what’s right and wrong by observing their mother, through play with other cats, or by interacting with their human families. In a one-cat household, your new kitten will not have the option to test boundaries, play, and observe other cats to learn these essential skills, so it’s on you! This is a really fun, exciting time to own a cat – kittens are little goofballs who want to jump, pounce, run, and stalk anything that moves. Kittens at this age enjoy games of hide and seek, so get out your paper bags and boxes, a few wand toys, and get to work! Your kitten is developing their motor skills right now, so lots of interactive playtime where they get to catch “prey” will be a wonderful lesson indeed.

3-6 Months of Age (and Beyond!)

Somewhere around four months, your kitten may start losing their baby teeth as their adult teeth develop. Their gums may be painful, so this would be an excellent time to start a dental care routine. Plastic drinking straws are a proven teething aid and make for great interactive play with your kitten. Kittens will start establishing their place in the “social ranking order” of your house during this time. It is not unusual to see a kitten challenge the alpha cat, which usually will earn the hapless youngster a scratch on the nose. Other cats, depending on their own social position and personalities, may defer to the kitten. Your kitten is still growing during this time, and it is not unusual to see a previously plump fluff of a kitten suddenly grow long and lanky before filling out again. Kittens should continue to eat kitten food during this phase of growth – they need the additional nutrients for strong bones, healthy teeth and supple muscles.

6-12 Months of Age

By now, your kitten is starting to show the physical and social traits of a fully-grown cat. By the age of 12 months, they will have attained the equivalent physical growth as a 15-year-old human teenager and will undoubtedly start showing some of the same personality attributes of that age. Don’t take it personally if your kitten doesn’t

seem as responsive to you as they did when they were teeny. Like a human teenager, they are testing the waters of adulthood to see what it feels like. They’re also playing a “dominance” game with you, just as they might with another cat or kitten. Be patient with them and give your kitten all the affection and love they will take – on their terms, not yours! They’ll come around after they’re out of this awkward middle stage! Your feline youngster will continue to grow and develop for another year before blossoming into an adorable little adult.

Is your cat bouncing off the walls, scratching furniture, vocalizing throughout the night, counter surfing or door dashing? Chances are, your cat is just bored!

In the wild, cats have a natural cycle of hunt, eat, groom and sleep. They aren’t always successful when capturing prey which means they spend a lot of time hunting for food. As a companion animal, cats don’t require the hunting behaviour to get a meal which can sometimes lead to less than desirable behaviours and boredom.

So how can we offer some excitement in their lives and curb unwanted behaviours?

Playtime

While some cats enjoy playing on their own with a toy mouse or ball that rattles, other cats may enjoy the hunting side of play that is better offered using interactive toys like long wands with string or feathers on the end. These toys will allow you to move it as though it’s prey – like a mouse on the floor or a bird flying through the air!

All the right moves

Rather than just waving the wand in the cat’s face or aggressively whipping it in the air, move the wand like prey would move. This could include:

  • Dragging it slowly across the floor with sudden quick movements
  • Slowly dragging it around a corner
  • Moving it through the air so it “flutters”
  • Bringing it close to the cat and the moving it away
  • Wiggling it under a blanket or towel on the floor so the cat can pounce on it

These are all ideas on how to pique your cat’s interest in the toy. Once they are interested, make it challenging for them to catch it, but also give them the satisfaction of catching the toy periodically so they don’t lose interest. You may be surprised at how good of a hunter your cat is, and how enthusiastic they become during playtime! Try playing with your cat once or twice a day to the point of exhaustion or loss of interest and rewarding them with their favourite treat or affection afterwards. You can also schedule playtime before they are scheduled to get their food.

Puzzle Feeders

Puzzle feeders require the cat to work to get the food. This can help with cats that are overweight or cats that devour their food quickly. There are a variety of puzzle feeders available, including balls that your cat must bat to get the kibble out of or that they have to reach in and scoop food out of.

There are also several DIY ideas for making mealtime exciting, including hiding treats or kibble in paper bags or egg cartons. For cats that have never used these before, you may want to start out with just using their favourite or a very strong-smelling treat to increase the incentive of working towards getting the food. Once they’ve gotten used to the concept you can begin feeding them strictly through these methods.

A room with a view

Sunlight, birds, squirrels…what’s not to love about having a nice cozy seat next to the window? Just by placing a shelf, bed or cat tree near a window, you can give the cat its own live entertainment while they get some Vitamin D! You can even hang a bird feeder right outside to guarantee some action.

 Plenty of places to scratch

Scratching behaviour serves multiple purposes for cats, including visual marking, stretching, maintaining the claws, and scent marking through glands on their paws. Offer plenty of places for your cat to scratch to help alleviate stress and tension.

Clicker training

Clicker training is more often associated with dogs. However, any animal can learn quickly through this method of reward-based training. Teach your cat to sit, shake a paw, high five or even some agility work. www.clickertraining.com has all the information you need to get started. Clicker training has multiple benefits, including providing mental stimulation for your cat, strengthening your bond, and helping you and your cat perfect some potentially entertaining tricks for you to show off to guests.

Growing up with a cat can be great fun, but it’s important to make sure that every member of your household understands the rules and responsibilities that come with cat companionship. Before adopting a cat, have a chat with your little ones to make sure they understand that your new feline is a friend and family member, not a toy, and that sometimes they need their space just like we do.

Choosing Your Million Dollar Dream Cat

If you’re considering adding a new kitten to your life and have young kids at home, it’s important to consider the amount of time you will have to care for the kitten as well as supervise. Kittens are babies who need your constant attention. Kittens are also fragile and may easily be injured by a well-intentioned child who wants to hug or pull at their ears and tail. You may want to consider an adult cat that isn’t skittish or fearful. Adult cats require less supervision and have already developed boundaries to some extent Some cats dislike having certain parts of their bodies touched, the volume of noise that comes along with having kids in the home, being picked up, etc. With an adult cat, you know what you’re getting. They sometimes even come with an owner history! If you are unsure that your child will be able to resist picking up your new cat, you should make sure that you choose a cat that enjoys being held.

  • Talk to your child about cats. Consider reading age-appropriate books about cats and how to care for them. Talk about what is required to keep your cat healthy and happy.
  • Visit friends who own cats. If your child hasn’t been in the company of cats, spend some time with feline-owning friends. This will help your child develop realistic expectations and show them how to handle and care for a cat.
  • Explain the commitment of owning a cat. Make sure your child understands that pets aren’t something to play with for a while, and then forget once the novelty wears off – adopting a cat means promising to care for the animal for its lifetime.
  • Give your child a sense of ownership. Create the beginning of a bond by involving your child in some decisions like. For example, let your child suggest a possible name or pick out food and water dishes.

The primary caretaker of your new cat will (and should!) be you or another responsible adult in the home. You’ll make sure that your cat’s basic needs are met. Let your child help in ways that are age appropriate. If you have a preschooler, maybe they can help dish up food. An older child may be able to handle tasks like daily brushing. Begin by setting up both your cat and your child for success. Demonstrate to your child how to politely interact with your cat by following this simple guide:

Being Polite & Respectful

Begin by setting up both your cat and your child for success. Demonstrate to your child how to politely interact with your cat by following this simple guide:

  • Hold out one finger and allow your cat to sniff it. If she rubs up against it, great! If she backs away or hisses, she is not yet comfortable, and it is best to withdraw your hand.
  • Gently pet her head, then chin. Next, stroke her neck, and finally along her back and tail. If she remains relaxed and interested, slowly test more boundaries. Always follow your cat’s lead. If they’ve had enough, let’s go do something fun somewhere else. When kitty’s ready, she will join in again.
  • Important tip: never force your cat to do anything. There will likely be negative consequences. For example, if you insist on holding your cat when they don’t want to be held, the cat may scratch you. This could harm your relationship with your cat in the future.
  • Always allow your cat to choose to engage in the interactions. Never force an introduction by holding your cat in place while your child interacts with them.

Other tips

  • A cat is not a dog! When a cat wags her tail, she could be saying “Don’t approach me.”
  • If she flattens her ears, she is likely unhappy. Careful – she may strike out at you (swat or bite).
  • Cats typically do not like direct eye contact. They may see it as a threat. Teach your child to use a calm voice around your cat. Your cat may perceive loud noises may be perceived as an aggressive move on your child’s part. It may also make your cat fearful of your child.
  • Chasing your cat or cornering them may feel like a game for kids, but for a cat it will be a frightening experience. your cat may feel threatened and may lash out by biting and/or scratching in order to protect themselves.
  • Attempting to interact with a cat when they’re sleeping, eating, or using the litter may frighten your cat. Allow your cat to feel safe and uninterrupted during these times.
  • Yelling, screaming or shouting is perceived as a threat to a cat and may sound like another cat picking a fight. These sounds often result in your cat becoming fearful of the person voicing those sounds.
  • Provide your cat with a safe place. This could be a cat tree, or access to safe vertical (higher-up) space where your cat may relax and get away for some uninterrupted time.
  • Your child and cat should always be supervised when interacting with one another.
  • If you have a young baby at home, make sure to be careful not to let your new cat too close. While your new cat may be great with kids, babies are unpredictable and may accidentally frighten your cat. This could lead to a potentially dangerous situation for both. Encourage your cat’s baby curiosity by letting them near baby’s things and by giving them good experiences near, but not TOO near, the baby.

The key to a successful cat-dog introduction is to expose them to one another gradually under controlled conditions. You may want to avoid creating situations where the cat runs away, and the dog’s prey-chase instinct is activated. If your dog has previously lived with a cat, and your new cat has previously had positive experiences with dogs, they may progress quickly to tolerating one another. However, if you have an adult dog that has never been around cats before, the introduction should be a very gradual process lasting up to 30 days. In either case, train your dog to sit and stay reliably before bringing your new cat home. This may give you somewhat greater control once the introductions have been made. Remember that these steps are progressive, so go on to the next step only when you feel your dog and cat have “mastered” the previous one.

  1. On day 1 confine your new cat to his/her own room. After a few hours, confine the dog in a fenced in yard or basement or separate room, and allow the cat to explore the rest of the house. Then put the cat back in his/her own room so the dog can become familiar with the cat’s scent. Put a baby gate up and leave the door closed.
  2. On day 2, crack open the door to the cat’s room a couple of inches and allow the dog to sniff and see through the opening for 30 seconds. Reward the dog for appropriate behaviour. Repeat this step a couple more times during the day. Continue to give the cat the opportunity to explore the house when the dog is securely confined out of sight.
  3. On day 3, increase the “viewing intervals” by short increments until the dog can watch the cat quietly for a few minutes. Reward good behaviour.
  4. On day 4, allow the dog to view the cat with the door completely open, with the baby gate still in place, for a few minutes at a time. If the dog is tolerating the cat, go into another room. Call the dog to you and play a game with him/her. Then ignore both animals (but keep attuned to them!) and engage in some other activity. The dog will start to lose interest in the cat.
  5. Eventually work up to leaving the door to the cat’s room open, with the baby gate still up, whenever you are home. Always close the door when you are not present! Some pet owners will always need to keep the dog and cat separated when they are not around to supervise, but others will find that after a couple months’ probation, the dog and cat are OK together by themselves. It’s far better to err on the side of caution, however, to prevent a tragedy. Even after your dog and cat are peacefully co-existing make sure that the cat’s food bowl and litter box are out of the dog’s reach. Keep the cat from approaching the dog when the dog is eating or chewing a bone.

Play-motivated aggressive behaviours are common in young, active cats less than two years old, and in cats that live in one-cat households. Playtime for cats is a time to work on exploratory, investigative, and predatory behaviours. Play provides young cats with opportunities to practice the skills they would normally need for survival. Kittens like to explore new areas and investigate anything that moves, and may bat at, pounce on, and bite objects that resemble prey to them.

Kittens usually learn bite inhibition (how hard to bite during play versus how hard to bite when they feel threatened) from their littermates and their mother. A kitten that is separated from her family too early may play more roughly than a kitten that has had more valuable family time. If you play with a young kitten using your hands or feet instead of toys, the kitten is liable to learn that rough play with people is okay. In most cases, it’s possible to teach your kitten or young adult cat that rough play isn’t acceptable behaviour.

Encourage acceptable behaviour.

Redirect your kitten’s aggressive behaviour onto acceptable objects like toys. Drag a toy along the floor to encourage your kitten to pounce on it or throw a toy away from your kitten to give her even more exercise chasing the toy down. Some kittens will even bring the toy back to be thrown again! Another good toy for a kitten is one that they can wrestle with, like a soft stuffed toy that’s about the size of your kitten. They will be able to grab it with both front feet, bite it, and kick it with their back feet. This is one of the natural ways kittens play with each other, especially when they’re young. It is also one of the ways they try to play with human feet and hands, so it’s important to provide this type of alternative play target. Encourage play with a “wrestling toy” by rubbing it against your kitten’s belly when they want to play rough – but be sure to get your hand out of the way as soon as they accept the toy!

Since kittens need a lot of playtime, try to set up three or four consistent times during the day to initiate play with your kitten. This will help her understand that she doesn’t have to be the one to initiate play by pouncing on you. Here are some great cat toys for interactive or independent play:

  • Fishing poles. Who would have thought a plastic pole with a string attached could be so great? These toys come with feathers, balls and other items attached to the end of the string. The idea is to drag or dangle the target in front of your cat, so she can practice her attack skills without attacking you. Kitty feather dusters offer the same kind of play. The only difference is the end of the plastic stick has a wad of fluffy feathers instead of a string and toy.
  • Toy mice or balls. Balls, toy mice and other small toys work best for games of chase, fetch and other hunting games for cats. Your kitten also appreciates small, furry toys that make noise to resemble prey and stimulate her predatory instincts.

Discourage unacceptable behavior.

You need to set the rules for your kitten’s behaviour, and every person your cat meets should reinforce these rules. Your kitten can’t be expected to learn that it’s okay to play rough with adults, but not with baby.

Withdraw attention when your kitten starts to play too roughly. If the distraction and redirection techniques don’t seem to be working, the most drastic thing you can do to discourage your cat from rough play is to withdraw all attention when they start playing too roughly. They want to play with you, so eventually they’ll figure out how far they can go if you keep this limit consistent. The best way to withdraw your attention is to walk away to another room and close the door long enough for them to calm down. If you pick them up to put THEM in another room, then you’re rewarding your kitten by touching them. YOU should be the one to leave the room.

What NOT to do:

  • Attempts to tap, flick or hit your kitten for rough play are guaranteed to backfire. Your kitten will become afraid of your hands, or they could interpret those flicks as playful moves by you and play even more roughly as a result.
  • Picking up your kitten to put her into a “timeout” could reinforce her behaviour – she may enjoy the physical contact of being picked up! By the time you get her to the timeout room and close the door, she has probably already forgotten what she did to be put in the situation.